Tuesday, 16 October 2012

MYawn

God, I'd love to get my hands on Myer!
(or DJs for that matter, but I happened to be in Myer yesterday so today it's the subject of my post).
I've only been in a few of the Myer Stores - Chatswood, Top Ryde, McQuarie, Bondi Junction and Pitt Street, so forgive me Myer if there is an astonishing beacon of retail excellence I have yet to discover.
With the possible exception of Bondi the same feeling grips me whenever I walk into a Myer store - a feeling of mild depression and lethargy.
I do realise, by the way, that if I have the desire to ever work with Myer in my lifetime, this may not be the best way to go about it, but I'm not blessed with the ability to keep my opinions to myself when it comes to The Shops, so here goes...
I've often thought that the name 'Myer' sounds a bit like a yawn - or maybe that's just how I'm feeling when I say it.
Either way, yawn is exactly what I did as I wandered into the Pitt Street store and felt my spirits dampen despite the bright and sunny day outside.
The Cosmetics hall is overwhelmingly dreary and oppressive, so I quickly 'escaped' to - oh! An equally claustrophobic mezzanine floor, albeit surrounded by admittedly beautiful lingerie. Convinced that (as any good retail bible would dictate) from here, I would be simultaneously guided and enticed through the store to ever more exciting departments and products. I pressed on through rack after rack of laciness before realising I had repeated two and a half circuits of this seemingly inexitable lingerie roundabout.
I'm exaggerating (only slightly) to make a point, but you get the picture. I'm aware that I may also be displaying characteristics of someone of limited intelligence, but this dim-witted state I seem to descend into is simply the effect the place has on me.
Eventually I gratefully seized a 'friendly' shop assistant and asked how on earth I could make the jouney to the first floor. "Back down the stairs and up the escalator", she practically sneered. She might have added 'stupid!'
I obediently followed instructions and proceeded to a dismal huddle of escalators in a dim and pointless atrium that does nothing to tempt you on to investigate other floors with any glimpse of what treasures may be disclosed - nor does it do what atriums do best - let in a load of uplifting and illuminating natural daylight.
Anyway, in a striking turn of events, I was greeted at the top of the escalator with a sleek and stunning visual presentation of Sass & Bide and another brand I'm not familiar with. Both looked slick, spacious and exciting.
WOW! I thought, fully prepared to be converted into a lifelong Myer fan. I don't mean to be cynical, you see. I love retail, I especially love department stores, I want to love Myer.
But sadly, it all became rather more mundane after that promising intro to the fashion floor. Myer's purchase and subsequent insertion of Sass & Bide has clearly added some sparkle to the store, but it now makes everything else look all the more dull.
I may be wrong, but it seems like a combination of two extremes here. Concession based brands, taking space and creating their own image within it, next to smaller brands assigned to identical, bland house fixtures. Myer (and other retailers of brands) really need to take control of their own identity and ownership of the brands they carry, whose retail and visual expertise will vary greatly. They don't need to be a slave to the bigger brands, who simply transplant their own concept into the store - and they need to do justice to the smaller brands, to really showcase their offer, making Myer a 'must outlet' for boutique labels and in turn a fashion destination for the women of Australia.
The art of presenting such an emporium is the creation of ultimate harmony. A dynamic, arresting, harmonious blend of the House Identity and the brands & designers it is home to. The result should be seamless, preserving the individuality of each brand without compromising the integrity of the store's own distinctive image. Not easy, but most definitely achievable.
A department store has the power to captivate and hold its audience for extended periods of time due to its variety, excitement, originality and continual innovation.
I really do apologise for the inevitable comparison, but I could easily lose a whole day in Selfridges or Liberty, and be delighted with every visit at what they have created for my enjoyment. These two retailers both do it brilliantly, but with completely different styles.
What is Myer's style? What is its point of difference, I wonder? Exclusive brand/designers and collaborations? Maybe... THEN TELL US ABOUT IT! - I MEAN REALLY TELL US.
As a shopper, I would have no idea which collections are exclusive to Myer - If I can't buy it anywhere else, that's a really big deal and should be made very obvious. Use it, drive it, grab attention with it, tell us we can't live without it and show us why.
Continue to bring us things we can't find anywhere but Myer, seduce us with stylish eateries & bars, interact with us, show us what's new / fabulous / hot / emerging, show us your finger is on the pulse - in the fashion thick of it. DEMAND OUR ATTENTION!
Come on Myer - we want to be dazzled and you have the power to do it!

Wednesday, 1 February 2012

Right on Cue...

Once in a while you discover a brand that once experienced, becomes for ever a part of your life. Having shopped at the wonderful Cue on just four occasions, I realise that is exactly what I have found here in Australia. Aside from the appealing and ethical brand ethos, the product is just, well - special! It's certainly not unusual to come across really unique and interesting pieces during any given shopping trip - but it would be rare to find many such pieces, all in the same store. With Cue, I find this to be a delightfully regular experience. Where do I start? Beautiful fabrics, flattering cuts, clever, yet uncomplicated designs, and subtle details all conspire to create a timeless collection of innovative, yet understated style.
The stores are stylish and pleasant [though sometimes the fixtures can feel a little crammed with product and therefore tricky to shop] and conveniently placed in all my favourite shopping areas.
I'd love to be able to view collections on line - even without e-commerce, the ability to view collections more frequently than one is able to visit stores, would, I'm sure lead to an increase in sales - a special order / reservation service would be an excellent service to offer Cue Club members.
All in all, it's safe to say I'm absolutely loving Cue! Well done guys, you have me hooked - along with, I suspect a significant proportion of the female population of Australia.

Monday, 26 September 2011

Australian Shoppers - Are you being served?

I don't want to be misleading, so I'd better say up front that the title is a reference to department stores rather than a post on customer service.
Actually it's a little more specific, in that the title conjures up memories of those traditional and somewhat fusty 'Grace Brothers' style department stores to which, in the UK, we have (in the main) long since waved goodbye.
In my opinion the credit for revolutionising department store retailing in the UK market goes to Debenhams - at the time under the flamboyant leadership of Sir Ralph Halpern and probably one of the most talented retail visionaries, John Hoerner.
In the late eighties, Debenhams turned department store retailing on its head when it spectacularly refurbished its flagship store on London's Oxford Street.
The sacrifice of hundreds of square feet of prime retail space, turned over to a dramatic architectural atrium, housing escalators to all floors was a brave and original move, but the effect was breathtaking. The substantial glass skylight at the top flooded the glossy, white space with natural daylight and if that wasn't enough, the whole space twinkled with thousands of tiny fibre optic lights.
Impactful merchandise statements demanded attention and beautifully presented and perfectly positioned displays led customers around the store with ease so that not a corner was left unexplored.
Of course much of the inspiration came from US retailers who were way ahead of us - not only in design and space planning, but in that very particular combination of art and science that is visual merchandising. With an American chairman at the helm, Debenhams honed and perfected this discipline and latterly, under the leadership of Terry Green who brought further innovation and theatre to the concept, Debenhams were a leading light in retail for some time.
Where shopping in department stores had become a functional, reluctant but often necessary exercise - it suddenly became a joy - people wanted to be there - and more importantly, stay a while...
The whole thing was very unsettling for competitor department stores, but they rose to the challenge and instead of trying to replicate the successful Debenhams formula, to their very great credit, instead carved out alternative market positions and brand image.
Sadly, Debenhams seems to have lots its way a little of late and the stores, while mainly modern border on the bland.
However, its legacy, I believe is that the modern department store landscape in the UK is an interesting one, with each player clearly defined and with a particular position and/or usp.
Debenhams with its unique mix of credible house brands and 'Designers at Debenhams', House of Fraser, more sophisticated in look and feel and home to a variety of high end brands. John Lewis will always be John Lewis - somehow they don't need to change and everyone is comfortable with their no frills, classical image and dependable product offer.
The incredible transformation of Selfridges into a perennially hip haven with its discerning mix of brands and designers brought another welcome dimension to UK retailing, adding cutting edge design and glamour to provincial cities as its portfolio expands, often accompanied by, Harvey Nichols, which, although it probably now occupies a similar space, appears to do so with a distinctly different style.
There are probably still a few good independent department stores out there too, alongside Fenwick, which still offers an enjoyable shopping experience (though they could do with upping their game a little to stay in the frame), and when you add M&S into the mix, who's offer has become more department store-like of late, I think Brits have it pretty good on the department store front. Even provincially, that's quite a lot of choice - then in London you can add Harrods, Liberty and Fortnum & Mason into the equation, not to mention Dover Street Market, which I would suggest falls into the department store category - unique, elaborate and exquisitely unconventional as it may be.
So how does this compare to Australia? Well, apologies for the inevitable comparison, but what else would you expect from a Brit living in Sydney?
I do admit that I have yet to venture further afield, (possibly Melbourne has much more to offer), though as far as I can discern, there are...................... two!
Now I do appreciate that this is a smaller market, and outside of Sydney, where I'd expect to find one or two stunning independents, two would probably be enough - IF, that is, those two were distinctive and discrete in their consumer profile, proposition and image.
But - the two players in question, David Jones and Myer, from the stores that I've shopped, appear to do pretty much the same job and in the absence of signage, I don't think I'd be able to tell them apart. I don't mean to be disrespectful - this is simply my objective impression as a shopper - and someone viewing this market with a completely fresh eye...
They still have the traditional furniture, beds and electrical departments that no-one seems to shop any more because specialist retailers and doing it better. Brands and designers appear to merge into one less than appealing mass on the fashion floors and the thought of negotiating it feels, frankly, too tiresome to contemplate - even for a shopaholic!
Think back to House of Fraser around 25 years ago and you get the picture...
It does feel like there is a massive opportunity here for someone to take the initiative, create something dazzling and shake the whole industry up a little.
Australians have to pay much more than their US and UK counterparts for just about everything they buy - I think they deserve to get more in return... MUCH more!

Wednesday, 14 September 2011

Velvet Retail: My first post!

Velvet Retail: My first post!: Well hi there, and thanks for stopping by...
I've been meaning to get around to this blog for sooooo long, I can't believe it has taken a move to the other side of the world to finally spur me into action.
I've worked for years in retail, from concept development, to designing store interiors, windows and graphics, to product layouts & space planning, to retail marketing and branding, but let's get one thing straight from the start.
I do not profess to be a retail 'thought leader', 'opinion former', 'guru' or any other such trumped up, self important and self appointed title - that would be rude! I just love shops - pure & simple.
The posts in my blog will be about things I've found and loved or hated, great ideas, bad ideas, things of beauty, things that are new and clever or old and outmoded. BUT - it's just my opinion. There's no right or wrong. If you happen to be a retailer and I write something about your store you don't like, I apologise in advance. If you think I might have a point you can always get in touch for a chat.

LONGING FOR LIBERTY

Isn't it odd that being away from something for a while can bring it into focus with greater clarity than when you see it every day.
I'm starting to find some really nice and sometimes inspiring retail here in Sydney, but I simply can't find anything that delivers the pure joy of an afternoon - or even a whole day spent in Liberty of London.
Actually I could spend close to an afternoon just in the perfumery department!
Absolutely everything about this iconic and beautiful store at every turn is pleasing to the eye, from the moment you enter, greeted by the glorious flower stall at the Great Marlborough Street entrance. The perfume selection is exotic and intoxicating, often with rare and exclusive fragrances, the stationery & gift department is always diverting, the bags - oh, the bags, the jewellery, the bags, the discerning mix of brands and designers on the fashion floors, the bags, the exquisite homewares - did I mention the bags?
And to complete the picture, what could be more perfect than afternoon tea at Cafe Liberty?
Liberty manages to pull off the ultimate combination of the classic, the contemporary, tradition and cutting edge in absolute harmony, with timeless elegance, grace and subtlety.
For me, a treasured British icon and paragon of great branding, marketing and retail excellence!

BETTY and LOLA - A NOSTALGIC GEM!

I mentioned in an earlier post how impressed I have been at the quality of traders at various fetes and festivals.
At a recent festival near our home in Hunters Hill, I had the very great fortune to stumble across the delightful Betty and Lola, created by the very talented Catriona Andrews.
Upon setting foot inside the tiny tent on a mild, sunny day, I was struck with a wave of nostalgia and happy childhood memories. Let me explain...
When I was a kid, my mum was somewhat nifty with the sewing machine and would always make a stunning array of outfits for our summer holidays. Gorgeous, yet simple sun dresses in really pretty prints, seersuckers, broiderie anglaise, beach ponchos made from towelling with bobble and tassel trims, etc., etc. Walking into the Betty and Lola tent was like being whisked back in time to those childhood holidays and their accompanying home-made wardrobes.
This is all in a very, VERY good way, you understand.
Catriona has developed a selection of signature shapes with ingenious simplicity, reproduced in carefully chosen fabrics and prints, combined with some beautifully customised denim shorts and skirts. I didn't want to leave...
Eventually I did, of course as I was starting to look like some weird stalker in a daze-like state, sniffing ponchos and fondling tassels, but not before buying shorts, 2 dresses, a skirt and a top for my daughter and a skirt and fabulously billowy voile top for me.
Check out the Betty and Lola website http://www.bettyandlola.com.au/
It's a pretty site and sets the scene well for the collection, though there is limited product available on-line and it really doesn't do it justice.
Any investors out there, this lady should have shops - and lots of them!
Catriona is no slacker as you can see from the list of fairs and markets she'll be trading at - and you can also find her at the EQ Markets every Wednesday.
Can't wait to see what she has in store at the Lane Cove street fair in October... ahhh, I can almost smell the Ambre Solaire [ok, so now I am showing my age - this was pretty much the only sun oil [yes, oil - factor nothing] available in those days!
... taking the Costa Brava plane... Y Viva Espania... la la la la la-la la la laaaaa

KATIE KATIE KATIE

Well now...
I've been getting around Sydney a little more since my last post and have found some great stuff to report...
More than anything about retail per se, this particular post is about a specific product. I confess to having a fetish for jeans - along with shoes and very large handbags, of course.... and paint charts!

Anyway, having flirted with the likes of Paige, True Religion, Seven, and Rock and Republic, amongst other brands over the years, I kind of settled on a few firm favourites - Sass & Bide, Girbaud, and my very favourite, the simply perfect and infinitely wearable, Hudson Jeans.
Skinny jeans have never been my thing and in my humble opinion only look good on twiglet like, boyish or 10 year old thighs, so once bootlegs were over, my only option was to go straight.
That's when my attention was diverted by NYDJ [an acronym for the improbably named, Not Your Daughter's Jeans] - a reference, I think to the fact that you need to buy a size smaller than you would normally [always a plus!]. They have lots of lycra and are well cut to 'shape' you and flatten your tummy, which can be pretty helpful on occasion!
I now have 5 pairs of these not inexpensive jeans, but somehow I always feel kind of middle aged in them [which, I'm not, of course].
So that's the background and I am, finally getting to the point...
A friend recently told me about Katies jeans and when she described them, they sounded pretty much the same as NYDJ. "Oh, but they're really expensive", she exclaimed "Katies are only $50"!
Hmmmmm - I must admit, especially given my experience in this market so far of cheap looking clothes that are overpriced, that I wasn't expecting much.
I didn't exactly dash to Katies but during an idle trip to the Macquarie Centre, I happened accross the store and curiosity got the better of me. I'm sorry to say that the store itself didn't look promising [sorry Katies] lots of drab, frumpy stuff in the main, but I soldiered on and searched out 'the jeans' aptly named 'the ultimate jeans'. And guess what - I think they are!!!
These babies really are a brilliant fit - much more comfortable than the NYDJ, nice quality and a great cut - and without the frumpy-bum styling.
Needless to say, I bought 3 pairs - would have taken more but my size was not available in all the colours. I'll be back to stock up soon though.
Not sure I'll every buy anything else from Katies but the jeans are a hit - thanks guys...